How to get hair to fall down
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Creating a healthy
head of hair is worth the effort. Ultimately, it means you’ll shed less, slow
down any thinning or hairline recession, experience less breakage and fewer
split ends, and even preserve your hair’s thickness and volume. Taking good care
of your hair, from your scalp outward, means better hair days, more
consistently, either because you’re investing in the right products—or maybe
even taking a targeted prescription, if that is what the doctor orders.
More from Robb Report
Whether you’ve had a
string of bad hair days or you just want to ensure your hair is as healthy as
it can be, it’s worth it to get expert advice. This is why we asked two
tonsorial professionals—a dermatologist and a hairstylist—for their expert
advice and hair health tips.
Read on to learn how
to make your hair healthier—and thank us later.
Hair Health Tips from a Dermatologist
Don’t let the “derm”
in dermatology limit your dependency on these doctors: They don’t just assess
your skin. They’re hair experts, too (after all, it sprouts from your skin—so,
in that way, they’re skin experts as it pertains to hair growth).
Dermatologists can help pinpoint the best solutions for improving hair health,
as well as the underlying factors that contribute to your unique situation.
Maybe your situation
is genetic. Maybe it’s seasonal or habitual. To know with certainty, you should
visit your doctor frequently, says dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon Dr. Dendy
Engelman (aka Dr. Dendy), the director of dermatology, Mohs surgery, and laser
medicine at New York City’s Shafer Clinic. She assesses her patients’ scalps
for thinning patterns and patches, irritation, sebum buildup and more. In her
view, routine visits will allow for faster, more effective solutions.
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In terms of medical
solutions, dermatologists will often harness the powers of lasers, plasma, and
prescriptions to fortify your hair, reduce hair fall, and even revive some
recently lost hair. But many people prefer a strictly holistic approach to the
problem, especially given the costs and occasional risks that come with medical
approaches—through “holistic” doesn’t necessarily equate to “inexpensive”. It
all depends on your approach.
“A holistic approach
generally means making changes to your diet, taking natural supplements, and
using hair or scalp care products in order to promote natural, healthy hair
growth,” says Engelman. “This approach tends to be less effective overall and
takes longer, compared to other pharmacologic approaches, which have been
clinically proven to be more effective.” That’s not a discouragement, it’s
simply a matter of setting proper expectations. Compare it to a common-cold
scenario: You can either have hot tea to soothe a cough and fall asleep, or you
can take Nyquil and doze off quickly and quietly. To each their own.
Many people combine
natural and medical approaches to arrive at the end goal of thicker, fuller,
stronger hair. And, two of the most popular solutions these days (low-level
light therapy and platelet-rich plasma) blur the line between the two.
Low-Level Light Therapy (LLLT)
Laser therapy
stimulates the follicles and scalp cells, boosting hair growth and strength.
Some hair clinics will offer it onsite, though you can also buy an at-home
helmet that offers the same benefits. “LLLT is a great option if you are not
interested in taking medication for hair growth,” Engelman says. “It treats
hair loss caused by many different factors, including genetics, chemotherapy, and conditions that affect the hair, like alopecia. Laser therapy treatment is
generally painless, and it has been shown to provide effective results.”
Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP)
“PRP consists of
drawing small amounts of blood from the patient, extracting the plasma from the
blood, and then re-injecting the plasma into the target treatment areas,”
Engelman says. “It is a way of using a patient’s own personal healing system to
promote hair growth, and it has yielded fantastic results for many patients.”
This is because everyone’s plasma has growth factors that act as a personal
super vitamin wherever injected (it’s also common for people to get “vampire
facials” which utilize the same science). As a two-time recipient of PRP, I can
vouch for its effectiveness in terms of density and growth stimulation, but
it’s a rather expensive solution yet, costing upwards of $1,000 per treatment
(and oftentimes, two or three treatments are suggested for each boost).
Minoxidil and Finasteride
Two pharmacological
solutions often associated with hair retention are minoxidil and finasteride.
Engelman frequently
recommends minoxidil to her patients. The now over-the-counter drug is the
generic version of Rogaine. It’s either a serum, spray, or foam that stimulates
circulation in the scalp’s dermis (the second layer of skin, which Engelman
notes is where the hair follicle resides). The circulation boost significantly
improves nutrient delivery to these follicles, which in turn fortifies hair
growth, and can even reverse and prevent hair loss if you’re experiencing crown
thinning.
“Minoxidil is a tried
and true treatment for genetic hair loss,” Engelman says. “It is not for people
who are having very sudden, unexplained hair loss. It is most effective when
used in combination with another hair loss treatment.”
Oftentimes, that other
treatment is finasteride—the generic version of Propecia, which prevents the
suffocation and shrinking of hair follicles by neutralizing the accumulation of
dihydrotestosterone, or DHT. DHT is a byproduct of testosterone production and
is responsible for recessed hairlines as well as male-pattern baldness. It is
typically taken as a daily pill, though some brands, like him, now sell
topical finasteride; this spray-on treatment is believed to offer the same
benefits without the risk of sexual side effects (which is one major turn-off for
the daily oral dose). Still, the oral finasteride is the current gold standard
in terms of significantly slowing hair recession, while aiding minoxidil in
restoring a fuller, stronger hair around the crown.
Engelman offers her
doctor’s warning on both drugs: “Consult with a doctor before starting. It is
important for a professional to walk you through the dos and don’ts that come
along with treatment so that you thoroughly understand potential side effects,
the time frame of usage, et cetera,” she says. It is important to note that if
you want to maintain the results of these products, then you must be consistent
in your use. It is OK to stop taking them, but your hair will eventually return
to its previous state.”
Aside from the
treatments mentioned above, Engelman recommends three holistic, habitual
strategies for improving the quality of your hair.
Audit Your Diet
“People tend to
believe that if they are using high-quality products in their hair, then that
should be enough for hair health,” Engelman says. “In reality, most of the
nutrients we need for our hair should be obtained from the foods we eat. Our
hair is made up of protein, and in order to support its health, we need to
maintain a balanced diet.”
For this, she
recommends healthy fats (like nuts, fish, flax), vitamin A (from milk and yogurt),
vitamin B (from beef, chicken, and potatoes), and iron (from lentils, spinach, and eggs).
“Fats are necessary
for the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, and K) nutrient absorption,
and vitamin B helps to break them down along with carbohydrates, which
ultimately strengthens the hair,” she says. “Vitamin A is utilized by our cells
to produce sebum, which is an oily substance that coats, moisturizes, and
protects the skin; sebum is essential for scalp health, which is a direct line
to healthy hair growth. Finally, iron distributes oxygen to the cells, and low
iron levels can directly lead to hair loss. Together, these nutrients work as a
system to regulate not only your hair health but the health of your entire
body.”
It should go without
saying then, that anything counter to healthy dieting—like binge drinking and
ingesting over-processed, sugary foods—can hinder the health of your hair just
as it can the rest of your body.
Manage Your Stress
One of the most common
causes of hair loss is stress, and it’s not just from sudden instances of
stress. Sometimes it can steadily sneak up on you, after months of working long
hours or never getting enough sleep. Any kind of stress—physical, mental, or
emotional—can increase cortisol levels, which can then trigger follicles to
shed the hairs.
“Find ways of managing
stress that works for you—like yoga, walking, time with friends, or therapy,”
Engelman advises. “You may be surprised by the effect it has on your hair!”
Use a Humidifier
Your hair’s health is
often directly correlated to the environment around it. “Especially in the dry
winter months, hair becomes much more brittle, fragile, and breakable,” Engelman
says. “Using a humidifier daily is an easy way to bring moisture back into your
environment, allowing your hair to better retain its own moisture and protect
itself.” She uses and recommends the Canopy Humidifier because it prevents mold
and bacteria growth and doesn’t spew contaminants or allergens into the air,
unlike some traditional models.
Hair Health Tips from a Hairstylist
Frequently, the root
cause of your hair problems isn’t at the root at all: It’s everything above the
scalp—the hair itself and the products we use on it, as well as the ones we
mistakenly overlook. Nobody is better at assessing this situation than a
top-tier hairstylist. Enter Meg DiGiovanni, owner, and stylist at Salon V in New
York City’s Greenwich Village. Here are her tips for improving hair health when
it comes to your care and styling regimen.
Understand Your Hair Type
The approach you take
to hair remedies is entirely dependent on your hair type. A guy with fine,
straight hair will have vastly different solutions for something like hair
breakage than another guy with thick, oily hair.
“Determining your hair
type is the first step in determining which type of products you should be
using for a healthy hair regimen,” DiGiovanni says. “Many hair products are
formulated for specific hair types, and using the wrong one may even cause
damage over time. Once you determine the density, texture, and oiliness of your
hair, look for products that will work best for you. If you’re not sure, ask
your stylist for help and product recommendations.”
Find Your Shampoo Balance
A healthy hair care
regimen centers around a balanced shampoo and conditioner cycle. Typically you
should be using conditioner more often, since it should always follow the use
of a shampoo, and can even be used on non-wash days.
As for shampooing,
here’s where your hair (and scalp) types start to play a big role. The amount
of sebum your scalp produces will often dictate how frequently you wash. “There
is no [single] right answer for how frequently one should be shampooing per
week. Overwashing can cause extreme dryness, frizz or breakage over time,”
DiGiovanni says. “Someone who naturally produces more oil, or has an active
workout routine may feel like they have to shampoo every day, and that’s OK,
but I recommend alternating your daily shampoo with a cleansing cream, or a
2-in-1, that won’t strip natural oils from the hair or leave the hair and scalp
feeling too dry.” Some people even choose to rinse their hair with conditioner
on the in-between non-shampoo days, since it can still rinse the excess oils
and grime away while nurturing the hair itself.
“As you age, your
scalp may produce less oil, so you may not need to shampoo as often, but if
flakes or scalp issues arise, then you may not be washing it enough,”
DiGiovanni says. “Also try rinsing hair with lukewarm water, as hot water can
leave the hair cuticle too open causing it to look dull and frizzy.”
See a Pro for Color
Don’t try bleaching
and dyeing at home. These products severely strip and damage hair’s integrity.
“Any chemical hair service should always be done by a professional to prevent
damage or breakage,” DiGiovanni says. “Also, washing less frequently is
recommended after a chemical service to preserve any loss of moisture or
elasticity.”
Adjust Your Regimen for the Seasons
Just as you might use
a humidifier in your bedroom during winter (per Dr. Dendy’s tips above), you
should make other adjustments to your hair care and styling regimen year-round.
Take summer, for example, and the increased exposure to UV rays, the excessive
humidity, not to mention the chlorine in a swimming pool or the salt in seawater.
You should protect your hair from all of these things if you want to prevent
dehydration, breakage, and frizzing.
DiGiovanni suggests
using products that seal off the hair’s cuticle and act as a shield to keep
these threats from compromising your good hair day (and good hair month, for
that matter).
A heat and humidity
spray (like this one from Amika) will protect against frizzing—and can also be
applied before blow drying for the same reasons. (That’s the “heat” in
question—not the summer temps.)
A UV filter cream or
spray (like Sachajuan’s) will prevent cuticle damage, frizzing, and split ends
caused by UVA and UVB rays.
A restorative or
repairing shampoo and conditioner (like Kiehl’s conditioner) to help hair
quickly recover after exposure to chlorine and saltwater.
Keep Your Hair and Scalp Hydrated
Routine hair
treatments can also help target your specific concerns, DiGiovanni notes, and
they tend to fall into one of three categories:
Scalp masks: “Healthy
hair starts from a healthy scalp,” she says. “Oil and product residue can build
up on the scalp and clog pores inhibiting hair growth, so show your scalp some
extra love with a detox cleansing treatment at least once a month.” (At Robb
Report, we like Prose’s.)
Hydrating masks: In
winter or arid environments “dry air outside mixed with the dry heat inside can
really leave hair feeling dull and thirsty, so I always recommend a deep
conditioning treatment when a burst of hydration and shine is needed,”
DiGiovanni says. (Try JVN’s new moisture mask.)
Leave-in conditioners:
“If there’s too much heat, if color or chlorine are leaving your hair parched
or damaged, then a leave-in treatment after conditioning will help combat the
dryness and restore porosity to the hair,” DiGiovanni Says (Moroccanoil’s
version is a longtime favorite.)
Go
Easy on the Towel Drying
While blow-drying hair can cause significant damage and breakage, so can towel drying. But don’t be discouraged—simply take it easy. “Don’t be aggressive when towel drying your hair, instead gently pat out the excess moisture,” DiGiovanni says. “Drying with a cotton t-shirt is an ideal way to limit frizz and breakage, especially on curly strands.”